Infrastructure improvements — that's what Salvatore Ferragamo CEO Michele Norsa said he'd like to see from the new Italian government of Matteo Renzi. And more foreign trade missions to promote Italian fashion.
"A new airport in Florence could change the history of the city, its potential," Norsa told reporters before the Ferragamo fashion preview. No telling if the fact that Renzi was Florence mayor until becoming premier will help Norsa's cause.
Norsa said adding new airlines to Florence, where Ferragamo is based, "would have an immediate effect" and that he'd like to see improvements to the general infrastructure in Italy.
Trade missions, he said, are also "fundamental for our sector, and also for the country." Rapid changes in governments in recent years have led to a lack of continuity.
Norsa said he has met and "appreciates" Renzi. "We all hope he has a long term and can do what is important for our sector," Norsa said.
POT OF GOLD
Milan designer Marco de Vincenzo's new looks culminated with pretty cocktail and day dresses in a copper rainbow effect.
The designer already found the pot of gold: French conglomerate LVMH confirmed to Women's Wear Daily before the runway show Sunday that it is making "a significant" investment in the brand.
Turns out industry insiders have known for months about the deal, which was thanks in some part to de Vincenzo's relationship with Silvia Venturini Fendi, whose fashion house already falls under LVMH.
De Vincenzo, 35, designed accessories at Fendi right out of fashion school, and launched his own line in Paris before moving to Milan in 2009 — when he won Italian Vogue's emerging designer award.
De Vincenzo's autumn-winter collection is a feat of optical illusions fused with inventive classic styles. The looks include leather coats with concentric strips of waving colors, plaid skirts with pleats that reveal a rainbow of contrasting metallic shades and multi-color dresses with wavy micro-pleats. The palate was neutrals in black, camel and grays, lit by flashes of "metallic strawberry, electric blue and bronze."
The Nomad spirit has seized Marni: Feathers festoon wool coats and skirt fronts, and some dresses have an exotic grass skirt effect.
The underlying architecture of the looks is pure Marni: ample cuts, ruffles, sloping sleeves, long hemlines and roomy trousers. And there are the classic Marini florals and patterns. In this collection for next fall and winter, the patterns are taken from German artist Mangus Plessen's works, part of Marni's ongoing collaboration with artists.
Designer Consuelo Castiglioni took the looks and layered one on top of each for a cocooning effect — a word bandied about Milan this season. In one look, a vibrant blue fur is wrapped over a sweater and bustier with a peplum embellishment that gives way to the aforementioned grass skirt, prettied up with iridescent blue and maroon feathers. The model's hair is matted, an almost seaweed effect speaks of wildness.
On the simpler side, Castiglioni also incorporates sporty looks from her men's line, with athletic style pants or skirts with drawstrings at the hem, worn with zip jackets and matching sweatshirts. There were a series of easy to wear, neoprene outfits featuring oversized ruffles, and to which this statement from the designer's notes certainly applies: "The body is barely touched."